Friday, January 23, 2015

Salalah No More

Well.... not as we know it anyway. Some may think I'm exaggerating and may even suggest I change the title of this post to "Haffa No More". But ... this is my blog after all and I've decided to name this post "Salalah No More". So there.

Dhofari Gucci is huddled in her little living room with a cup of tea and some country music. Lady Antebellum's "Hello World". You see, I'm feeling nostalgic. And when Dhofari Gucci is feeling nostalgia, she listens to country music. 

I'm having an emotional day, you see. I woke up to the news of the demise of the king of Saudi Arabia. Watching Saudi Arabia mourn created a tight knot the heart of every Omani as we all prayed for our own ruler's health. Trust me, it's not easy being in the dark as you can see from my previous post. After that, I was informed of the sad death of a friend's family member. Then I spent the morning in Haffa mourning Salalah as we know it. I'll say more about that in a bit. Following my heartbreaking morning in Haffa, I spent time cruising past Dahariz beach and Taqa beach, more areas that the government plans to revamp murder.  I decided to cheer myself up by seeing a movie. Unfortunately, the only movie showing at that time was American Sniper. I'm not a fan of war movies, but Bradley Cooper's kinda cute and I like Sienna Miller, so I went. 

Big Mistake.

No words can describe how much I despise Hollywood right now. It's like America (no offense) is begging Arabs to hate them. What a racist stupid idiotic movie. Sure, show your movie in all Arab cinemas. Throw in a good-looking actor playing an American sniper, a few hundred F-words, and refer to Arabs more than a dozen time as 'savages' as you shoot them one by one from your comfortable mattress on the rooftop of an Iraqi home.  Many events in the movie took place in Al Falluja, an Iraqi city. "A city of savages" according to the US Marines. Yep. Not very nice for those of us who actually KNOW people from Falluja. Two of my math professors at university were from Falluja, and they were some of the nicest people I've ever met. 

And then Americans wonder why the Arab world aren't fans. When people around the globe are struggling to strengthen understanding and build bridges to promote peace, out comes one stupid movie that ruins everything. I couldn't keep track of the number of people who got up and left in the middle of the movie. I consider myself to be a calm realistic and intelligent person, but I left feeling upset and well.... furious.  America, you failed.

Now, back to Haffa.

Anyone who has been to Haffa beach/corniche/souq knows what it means to us Dhofaris. In fact, the first post I ever wrote on this blog in 2009 was about Haffa. See the link here.  For decades and decades, Haffa beach is where locals go to practice the art of doing nothing. For as long as I can remember, Haffa has been the hub of local life. 

The picture above depicts Haffa as I know it.  Old men sitting in circles on the sand playing cards and board games. Young men playing soccer. Women huddled in groups sipping tea and talking. People on their front steps watching the world go by. Fishermen mending their nets. Guys smoking hookah. Kids build sandcastles. Tourists, locals, expats, everyone. All these people came to Haffa to chill. The entire length of the beach was dotted with ancient ancient precious coconut palms, old houses, cafes, a traditional souq, and at the other end Al Baleed archaeological site. Despite its ancient feel, people love the place. Local fishermen have lived on that beach for as long as they can remember. My friends and I sat on that beach every Friday evening for years. We'd gather to chat and sip tea. Haffa beach is part of us. It's in our hearts. 

Anyway, one day many years ago (at least a decade?) the government decided 'Hey, let's kill Haffa and build a few hotels'. So yeah, families who have been living there for generations were given land and money and told to evacuate. They fought, they struggled, this was all kept out of the media (of course... like seriously, why would Oman wants to cover REAL issues in the media?). I know about this because a friend of mine and her family were evacuated. 

It took years to get everyone out, and a few weeks ago they finally switched off water and electricity in Haffa. The houses were empty, vandals had stolen everything they could steal (windows, doors, metal, etc, etc). It looked like a war-zone (I have photos - to come soon). 

A couple of weeks ago I drove over there in the morning. The silence was deafening. It felt like the aftermath of war. Crumbling ruins. Abandoned homes. Stray dogs. Vandals. A lump formed in my throat. How we took this beautiful part of town for granted assuming it would always be there. Now that it's gone, all I had were these crumbling ruins and my memories. There were other Dhofaris there that morning, all standing there like I was, heartbroken. 

Last week they bulldozed everything down. Before they killed what was left, I decided to work on a very special project. I'll share it with you later, it needs a little editing. 

In the meantime, this is what Haffa looks like today:

Yes. That's what's left. The palm trees and a load of rubble. People's homes. 

Now, don't get me wrong. I'm not against development. I even like the idea of having Costa on the beach. But did they really have to kill the heart of the city? For tourism? People come to Salalah looking for something authentic. Haffa was authentic. Seeing life for what it really is was authentic. Five-star hotels, cafes, and fancy walkways are anything but authentic. Do we really want to become another Dubai or Doha? We need to hold on to what makes us Dhofari. Our local life. 

If you've been to Muttrah, imagine them tearing down all the waterfront buildings in Muttrah to make room for hotels and modern development. Imagine what the locals would feel. People come from all over the world to see Muttrah JUST AS IT IS. 

The same applies to Haffa. 

The worst part is that the government hasn't even bothered to share their plans with locals. We have no idea what they plan to do with the area. We hear through the grapevine... hotels, walkway, cafes, ... the usual. 

Dahariz beach is also being revamped. I fear Taqah is next. 

Is this what we want? Is this what tourists wants? 



  1. So sad, sigh. This is happening all over Oman, the beach where the Wave is, Quantab is destroyed, the small fishing villages in Batinah where their building the new highway evacuated and bulldozed, Yiti (the land drudged out awaiting development), Boshar sand dunes -built up now three building thick into them..etc...and by the way Muttrah is in for a major overhaul soon as reported a few months back.

  2. I find it depressing beyond belief that an Arab, a Muslim, or just any decent human being could even contemplate watching something as sickening as American Sniper in the first place. Didnt enjoy it No sympathy from me. Shame on you.

  3. This is horrible.
    I have spent many lazy afternoons on Haffa beach, watching the world go buy.
    This is pure greed. Plain and simple.


  4. I couldn't agree more and have been meaning to write about this topic myself. Even as an outsider (Western ex-pat) Haffa has a special place in my heart and it is so sad to see it lying in ruins. It seems like the very things that are appealing about a place are being destroyed in the name of progress and development. I sincerely hope that Salalah doesn't just become another resort tourism destination - attracting all the wrong kinds of people - who go anywhere for the beach/sun - rather than those who are interested in the local culture, customs, language, traditions and nature/wildlife. I really hope that something tasteful is created at Haffa. It would be really depressing if all its charm and character is lost and it must be difficult for locals to embrace tourism if they feel like their homes were destroyed to accommodate them.

  5. This is not what I want as a tourist. I first visited the beach here in 2009 and again in 2012, and it breaks my heart that this is what has become of it.

  6. I hear what you are saying regarding Haffa, and I had noticed that it was derelict during my trips to Salalah over the last 2 years, but in those 2 years, Haffa beach has always been horrible, mostly run-down buildings that were empty. Now I know why... and yes it's sad, but it's not like there was anything other than old houses there, no markets. Yes, it's sad that families were moved from their ancestral homes, that is always sad and I really do feel for them.

    But with development will come jobs, and hopefully increased tourism, and with that, more revenue for Salalah.

    I've no idea what is planned there, but I do know that the beach front of Al Baleed already has a corniche walk made, raised up, with what looks like will be restaurants dotted along the path too. Sort of a bit like what Love Lane is like in Muscat, except without the cars.

    It's a shame the plans haven't been shared - because - if, like it should be, if someones house is being bulldozed, it's for the better of the city, it should be proclaimed loud and proud what is being done.

    I hope those that were displaced were adequately compensated, and the beach will remain, and hopefully the art of doing nothing in Haffa will be rediscovered in due course.

  7. Oman is being systematically desecrated all over. We will never get back the mountains they have mutilated or those remote and pristine beaches. Even our silent desert spaces are eroded by the day. The heart has been ripped right out of Oman under the false banner of progress

  8. "Oman No More" might be still more apposite

  9. This is not what we tourists want, we want it to be genuine and typical Omani. I thought they were very careful in Oman with these things, preserving the culture and heritage, that is what we all want! What does the Sultan say?

  10. In December 2014 I drove by Hafffa beach with a local friend. If he was aware of what was going to happen, he didn't say so. I am shocked to the bones. I am European. If I travel Arab countries it's to see their beauty and to feel the Arab heartbeat. I pray Haffa is not going to be another Torremolinos or the like. Why can the old buidings not be integrated in a new concept? Even if I take into consideration the creation of many new jobs it hurts so much. Haffa - my heart will always remember the many mornings I had breakfast there.

  11. That concrete walkway at al baleed is not at all sensitive to the sea, the sand or the archaeological digs. V v sad. It is not people friendly at all and I just hope the rest of haffa development takes people, local and tourists into account.

  12. its really sad i moved to salalah in 2009 and i lived there for almost 4 yrs salalah was my home and i made many memories and haffah was one of them. haffah was only about 3 minutes from my home and i enjoyed just taking a round or 2 on the beach just to get out of the house or sit and watch the waves especially during the khareef i loved seeing how high they could splash against the walls i was so proud that oman was different that it was holding onto its roots and not like other countries yes resorts are nice and comfortable but some places shouldnt be touched and remodled to suit "tourists" oman is such a beautiful country and they should really try hard to preserve its natrual beauty i hope whatever they have planned will make up for tearing up haffah

  13. The movie may be bad, but you ignore the fact that in the past few weeks we see ISIS beheadings all over our media, the acts of savages.

  14. That's really sad about Haffa. InshaAllah its better.

    Muscat is sad for Qantab. Even the expats.

  15. I just came from the short trip to Oman, and I was very much impressed by Your country. I considered it real culture as opposite to UAE. I hope it would stay authentic and life culture. I like Your blog very much. Well written and intersting.

  16. it's a movie get over yourself.

  17. Up here in Dubai they seem to be turning in the right direction - Jumeirah Beach East has been given a nice long running track, exercise areas, little coffee shop stands, surfboard rental places etc. Tourists and locals alike use the beach.