Sunday, June 6, 2010

Tropical Storm Update (6)

My thoughts and prayers go out to the families of the 16 victims of Cyclone Phet. The newspaper reports this morning are sad. Evidently the ROP (see above image if you can read Arabic - was published in today's newspapers) will be questioning people who put themselves and others in danger by going into wadis or even going to 'stare' (the ultimate Omani hobby). According to my fellow blogger Reality, an ROP officer drowned trying to save a kid who was 'swimming' in a wadi. I SALUTE THE ROP FOR DOING THIS.
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And finally a kind reminder to the childish readers who go out of their way to type up long sarcastic responses to my posts .... I apply comment moderation and will not publish them. So, don't bother yourselves.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Tropical Storm Update (5)


The storm has passed. Half of Oman is under water, but all is well in our world. Salalah also witnessed some rain this morning, so it's safe to say that Cyclone Phet affected the whole of Oman. The television footage of all the running wadis is horrifying. I've been tuned in to Oman TV all day. What a mess. The hard part is trying to get things back to normal. What are we going to do with all this water?!

Friday, June 4, 2010

Tropical Storm Update (4)

Storm is still passing through Oman. Heavy rains in Sharqia region and light-ish rains in Muscat. Expect heavy wind and rain in Muscat this evening as the eye of the storm passes through. The wadi-scenes from Mahoot and Sharqia are horrifying. So much water.
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Two dead so far. Allah Yer7amhuh. STAY AWAY FROM WADIS!
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Exams for schools and many colleges are being postponed until June 12. Yay for grade 12 students.
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Stay tuned to Oman TV to get your dose of live footage from all the affected areas. The Phet studio went on air at 11 p.m last night and will be the only program on air until the storm passes.
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The danger has NOT passed yet. DO NOT go out exploring. The wadis are extremely dangerous and some of the dams are overflowing, including Sur Dam which was full by 11 p.m last night even before the storm hit!

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Tropical Storm Update (3) - Public Holiday

Raining in Masira. Heavy wind. Saturday has been declared a public holiday by His Majesty.
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Stay tuned.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Tropical Storm Update (2)

Oh dear ... the storm has completely changed course and is heading towards Oman. It will hit Masira tomorrow evening and then move up through Oman and will affect Muscat. Stormy weather expected until Sunday. People, this is MUCH stronger than Gonu. It's going up to grade 5 - super cyclonic storm tomorrow (purple! - the worst) when it hits land. Gonu was only barely orange when it hit Oman. This one has moved from yellow to orange to red, and tomorrow at purple (windspeed of 250 km/hr).Masira and Ras Al Hadd are being evacuated at this very moment and people are going crazy buying supplies in Musat and Sur. WHY AREN'T THERE SERIOUS WARNINGS ON TV?

Tropical Storm Update

Wednesday at 6:25 p.m - predictions are worsening. It's getting stronger and not expecting to turn as quickly. Masirah Island is being evacuated now. Thanks Muscat Confidential!
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The cyclone, name Phet, has its own Facebook page believe it or not. Stay tuned and keep Oman in your thoughts and prayers!

Tropical Storm Risk

Not the kind of news you want to hear on a weekend; especially since next week will mark three years since Gonu hit Oman. It looks like we're barely out of the danger zone. The storm is moving from Category 3 to Category 4 (intense hurricane) within the next 24 hours with windspeed of 250 km/hr. Let's pray it changes direction today.

Extra Note on Slavery

Back to everyone's comments on slavery, I'm no expert but as far as I know, the Zanzibari population in Oman at the moment is in no way related to the slaves we had in Dhofar pre-1970. I think the slaves were brought from poorer countries in Africa. Zanzibaris are another story. They helped build this country in the early days! Yes, they're African but they were not brought here as slaves and they have different features; paler skin, different bones. So, do keep in mind that we have two sets of Africans in Oman; the Zanzibaris (in the North) and the former African slaves (mostly in Sur and Salalah). Our African-Omanis are as black as the night and very African looking. Zanzibaris are more Arab-looking.

Monday, May 31, 2010

Slaves in Dhofar

I've been thinking about an incident that occured in Salalah recently (few weeks ago) regarding the use of the word 'slave'. Evidently a young nurse (whose family were former slaves) got into an argument with a patient over something. The patient was from one of Salalah's so called 'high class' tribes or 'Assada' (that's another story that needs to be told). He ended up calling her a slave. She took him to court and he was forced to pay her a large sum of money (10,000 Rials?). He was also sentenced to six months in jail but was bailed out by his tribe.
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This incident brought tears to my eyes. This is the first time I've heard of a former slave or descendents of slaves fighting for their rights. And to be honest, I had no idea that the Omani law protected slaves like this. When I was young, one of my closest friends was the daughter of slaves. She was the sweetest girl ever and I remember being made fun of by my classmates for befriending a 'slave' just because she was black. In fact, my older brother asked me to stop being friends with her because I was ruining the family reputation. This hurt me a lot, and I know it hurt her too, but we remained friends and she ended up moving to Muscat and is now studying abroad to become a lawyer.
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Former slaves (African Omanis) aren't as visible in Muscat as they are in Sur and Salalah. A large percentage of people in Salalah are black and to be honest, I hardly notice anymore if a person is 'black' or not. Do keep in mind that slavery is still very fresh in the memories of locals in Dhofar. It was not abolished in Oman until 1970 when His Majesty Sultan Qaboos overthrew his father in a bloodless coup. In fact Oman (and Muritania) were the last two countries in the WHOLE WORLD to abolish slavery, with Muritania finally ending the world's slave era in 1981.
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When slaves were freed in Dhofar in 1970, many of the palace slaves chose to remain in the palace and to continue working there. They remain very loyal and are treated royally by His Majesty. Slaves that worked for families chose to either remain with the family and take on the family name (yes, this is why you may sometimes see black Amris or Ghassanis or Shanfaris) and others broke off and created their own family names. They remained very hardworking and sometimes I envy their women because they're more liberal and independent than the rest of us in the tribal system. The first women to throw off the face veil were black. The first women to go out and work. The first nurses in Dhofar. The first women to become cashiers in supermarkets. The first to start driving. There are a lot of firsts. They are proud and successful and wonderful people.
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They are our best soccer players, our best dancers and musicians and they're definitely keeping the music scene alive in Dhofar. All our local dancers are former-slaves. Take a look at the Salalah's handicrafts souq. The women working there from morning to night producing beautiful incense burners and leather are black. They do not have the stupid pride that most of the other tribes carry around with them. They don't worry about 'what people will say if I do this or that'. They're just enjoying their life, and I salute them for it.
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What do you think?

Monday, May 24, 2010

Random Gucci Post

Good Morning and to all you Muscatees out there, greetings from 'rainy' Salalah! Yes it's raining! I'm starting to think all the Muscat bloggers have become puddles on the hot pavement since there seems to be no movement in the blogs I read regularly. Muscat Mutterings? Muscat Jet Driver? Other Oman? Dragon? Angry? Muscato?
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Regarding my 2-day visit to Dubai over the weekend all I can say is .... blah! As modern as it may seem, Dubai to me is a city with no personality. A city with no unique flavor of its own. A machine. A robot. It's fun to go for .... a day? And after that I'm citied out and sky-scraped out, and traffic-ed out, and most certainly shopped out. When I was living abroad, my college was in a very small town and I like the small-town feeling. No tall buildings, no skyscrapers and definintely NO metro or huge shopping malls.
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We accomplished a lot with the groom-to-be over those two days so that was successful. We bought all the furniture for his flat as well as gifts for the bride (and a few gifts for myself from the abaya mall! OH YES!). I didn't make it to Wild Wadi since it wasn't women's day on my only free afternoon). Ikea was a dream come true. I used to buy all my household things at Ikea when I lived abroad. I can't wait till they open one in Oman (and yes they will soon according to my sources). Fdayooh they were out of the peach shake at Macaroni Grill. So I didn't ed3eelak, more like إدعي عليك.
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I didn't make it to the observation deck at Burj Dubai/Khalifa. (a) we didn't have time and (b) the groom and myself are afraid of heights. Next time I'm in Dubai, I'll definitely schedule it around ladies night at Wild Wadi. DEFINITELY. And now that I've fallen in love with Ikea all over again, I want to get married immediately and have a home of my own. My passion in life is decorating homes and re-arranging furniture. I re-arrange the furniture in my office and room at least once every three or four months. I collect home design magazines and read them under the covers at night. This is why my dear relative asked me to come to Dubai. He knows it's my field of expertise and perhaps he's inspiring me to get married. Anyone looking for a wife?
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After my 72-hour escapade, I was GLAD to be home. God, Salalah is beautiful. Peaceful, quiet, ... REAL. With all the tourist projects going up all over the place, I hate to think what Salalah will be like in 20 or even 10 years. At the moment, it a safe little haven.
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Now that our groom is back with his furniture, the wedding is scheduled for July. In Dhofar this would be the right time to start panicking. My aunts almost fainted last weeks when I cheerfully informed them that my sisters and I still hadn't designed our velvet thobes (dresses) for the wedding nor had we booked a makeup artist to apply three tons of white paint to our faces on the wedding day. In our tribe, it's 'taboo' to wear the same thobes twice. Every wedding means a new one. Crappy traditions. A waste of time and effort and money in my opinion. If you're a new-ish reader, I suggest you read my post on Father of the Tail and Dish Detergent in order to understand the trials and tribulations of weddings in Salalah. Once you finish reading, get down on your knees and say a little prayer for Dhofari Gucci. I don't know how I'm going to survive yet another wedding. I've been to three already this year and they were beyond exhausting. My skin was raw for days due to the amount of time spent scrubbing it with dish detergent.
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Off I go to make myself a cup of tea. I'm still on leave (came back from Dubai yesterday) so I guess it's time to go and re-arrange my bedroom furniture. Have a great day everyone!
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Wednesday, May 19, 2010

More Drug Dealers

If you remember my March post about the drug campaign, evidently (if my sources are right - and yes that's sources, not source), one of the people arrested for questioning is the the one and only Al Fadhilya, Dhofar's #1 Makeup Lady. She charges 100 Rials for bridal makeup and sometimes even more!!! HOW THE HELL could she be involved? Some people told me she was selling drugs to girls claiming the drugs would make them white or thin or whatever.
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This is unbelievable. Has anyone heard about this?

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Dubai ... Here I come!!

Dhofari Gucci is packin' her bags. I'm going to Dubai this weekend and I'm SO EXCITED! A very very close relative (ehem) is getting married and he's asked my sister and I to come with him to pick the furniture for his partment and some gifts for his bride. Wedding is during July. I'm so excited! I haven't been to Dubai for five years at least. I know so much has changed.
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I'm definitely heading to Wild Wadi (the water park?) Can you recommend anything else?

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Empowering Women.... Government Style ..

Hey everyone! Again I apologize for not writing a regular basis. April/May/June are always busy, and I think that's the case for many other bloggers too. The blogging scene hasn't been very alive lately.
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It's Wednesday and instead of taking my 20 minute lunch break, I'll brief you on an interesting meeting that happened in Dhofar a few weeks back. It's no secret that Dhofar may seem a little neglected sometimes. It's not our fault that we're at the other end of the country and there's a huge empty space between the North and South. All media publications focus on activities and events in the capital, so yes we may seem a little left out sometimes.
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Anyway, many of you are aware that Oman's first women's symposium was held in Muscat last October (?) and His Majesty donated generous scholarships, etc to many women and declared Ocotber 17 to be Omani Women's Day. It was all very nice and dandy; however, again very few women from Dhofar were involved in the symposium and events of last October. Very very few. And so, after a few complaints and following instructions from you-know-who, the Minister of Social Development decided to have a discreet meeting with the women of Dhofar. I received an interesting call in November asking if I'd be part of the meeting. I accepted out of curiosity (always looking for something to blog about!). The meeting was postponed a couple of time, and finally it happened in March.
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It was all very odd. Names of attendees were selected very carefully, with documents going back and forth between Salalah and Muscat with names. Many names were eliminated (wonder why?). I was told not to say anything about it to anyone (Me? hah! Now that it's over, I don't think I can get into much trouble).
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The meeting happened at night. A mix of women attended from the women's associations, doctors, professors, managers, schools principals, and other women with power in the private and public sector. All women. I recognized many of them. It was kind of weird to see them all in the same room. There was no media coverage and particpants in this 'meeting' weren't allowed in without their cards. I just happened to forget my card in the car, so I begged the person at the door to let me in. They finally agreed.
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Anyway, Her Excellency arrived and the meeting started. She discussed different topics (none really of interest to me except for ....... ). She emphasized the importance of being active in Women's Associations (bah). She reminded us that most women in these associations are uneducated and do not work. She encouraged the working educated women to join and bring new talent and ideas. She mentioned that these associations would play an important role in the upcoming Shura Council elections (bah again). I took notes during the meeting but my notebook isn't with me right now, and my memory is malfunctioning today.
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Several women at the meeting brought up topics that they felt passionate about. I thought it was funny that two of the women refused to take the face veil off. Her Excellency looked at the gathering of women and said 'I'm not starting unless I see all faces', and they just looked blankly at her as if she hadn't said anything. She repeated it again and they just sat there being stubborn. Finally she gave up and started the meeting. Personally, I thought it was a little disrespectful. The women should have taken the veil off in the first place. There was no media coverage so no one was taking their pictures. And it was ALL WOMEN!
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An interesting point she brought up was the cases of Omani women marrying foreigners. She said (correct me if I'm wrong) that the Ministry of Social Development was working closely with the Ministry of Interior to make things E.A.S.I.E.R for Omani women who want to marry expats. The future is looking bright. If what she said was true, then Oman is on the right path to becoming a peaceful yet modern country. I think there is absolutley nothing wrong with marrying a non-Omani. In fact, in some cases like my friend Reality, it's actually more 'right' than her marrying an Omani.
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And so the meeting ended. I left before the Minister did, but as I was leaving I saw some women having private conversations with her. I have mixed feelings about the whole thing, but it was nice to see all my Dhofari sisters in one place together. However, I believe change comes from within. I hate how Omanis seem to think the Government is going to solve all their problems. It's not. We have to empower ourselves. We have to creat change, not wait for it to happen. But .....All is well in Oman... for now.

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Only in Salalah ...

Good Morning Everyone!

Not something you want to see when you shop at your local Isteqrar Hypermarket.

Saturday, May 1, 2010

World Health Day - Part (2)

Hi Everyone! If you remember my post here on World Health Day celebrations in Salalah, just a quick update on what actually happened. The walk started at Salalah Airport parking lot at 4:30. I wasn't expecting a large number of people, and I was planning on leaving if I couldn't spot any abayas, but ......... yes there were women, children, men, government officials, doctors, nurses, etc, etc. I'd say around 1000 people showed up. It was fun. I ended up walking the whole stretch. It was HOT, but I survived. I dragged my brother along and he almost murdered me for forcing him to expose his beautiful skin to the sun. Oh well. :)

Monday, April 26, 2010

I'm still alive!

Don't worry, I haven't disappeared off the face of earth like Muscato and Angry. I'm still alive. Three of my colleagues are on leave (1 annual, 2 emergency) and I am D.Y.I.N.G. I'm at work 12 hours a day. This will only go on for another week then one of them comes back. I have lots to write about, but I haven't even had time for coffee.
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A colleague forwarded the link to my blog this morning with this comment 'Hey Nadia, check out this AMAZING blog. It's called Dhofari Gucci. I'm sure it's a man. Can you find out who it is and tell us in X department? We've been betting'.
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I don't write like a man, do I? That's an insult to my pompom and red high heels.
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PS (to all you health freaks out there, I have GREAT NEWS! I found good soy milk in Salalah! Yipeeeee! Lulu Centre now provides it regularly)

Monday, April 19, 2010

New Blogger

I'd like to welcome Jebbali man's wife Umm Q to the Dhofari Bloggers' Scene. Welcome to Salalah and I hope your new life here will be full of happiness, adventure, contemplation, and faith. You can take a look at her blog Sweet Salalah here. And hopefully she'll get the chance to meet Rania because both of them are young mothers married to Omanis in Salalah. Back to work....

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Murder in Dhofar (2)

I apologize for the delay. I've been very very very busy this week and last week. I haven't had time to check email or breathe and believe it or not, I forgot to even have coffee today. Hectic hectic world.
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Anyway, I'm planning a post on current traces of slavery in Salalah, but meanwhile, I'll update you on the murder. Thanks to my contacts at the Ministry of Health, I have more details. The murder happened in Al Hilaniyat Islands off the coast of Dhofar. A man stabbed his 25-year-old sister to death and shot her with his pistol. The motives are still unclear but I'm pretty sure it involved another man/lover. He is in prison. The autopsy was performed at Sultan Qaboos Hospital in Dhofar. She was a Shahri. May she rest in peace. What a sad sad tragedy. And to anyone who says 'Murders like these happen all the time. It's nothing new', I say 'The minute we become immune to such tragedies, we stop becoming human'. I will never ever become used to hearing about crimes where lives are taken.
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And to all the children in my life; 'May Allah protect you and may you never experience all that is possible to get used to. Ameen'.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Murder in Dhofar

Hmm.... evidently a Dhofari man stabbed his sister to death this week and then shot her in the face with his pistol? I'm seeking more information. Something like this shouldn't be covered up. I have her name. May she rest in peace Inshallah. Has anyone heard anything about this?

Monday, April 12, 2010

Hell on Earth

Read Sleepless in Salalah's latest post here. And the New York Times' piece here. I am so so so so sad. I feel sick to my stomach. What have we become? Why should a child be married off to a grown man and tied down to a bed and forced to have sex with him after he damaged her vagina and she was bleeding to death?? I am ready to go to Yemen and kill that man. What a sick sick sick animal. AND WHY CAN'T THE WORLD DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT????? WHY ARE THE YEMENIS STILL DEBATING??? This kind of situation requires immediate action. This type of marriage should have been banned centuries ago! We live in the year 2010. HOW can over a quarter of Yemeni brides be under the age of 15?
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My 60 year-old neighbor married a 13 year old child several years ago. I remember. THIRTEEN YEARS OLD. She asked for a divorce and got it when she turned 16. Humans can be such animals. Say a prayer/make Du'aa for all the children out there who are suffering ...

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Happy Birthday to Me!


Happy Birthday to Dhofari Gucci! One year ago today I logged onto Blogger and created my baby. It has been an amazing journey. Thank you to all my readers for the support, comments, and debates. And a special thank you to all the haters who make my life more interesting!
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When I first started, I was using the blog to vent. I never thought anyone would find it and I didn't bother sending the link to anyone. However, lo and behold, Faith & Sting found my blog and that was the beginning. Thanks again !
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Have a great weekend everyone!

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

World Health Day in Salalah - Join the Walk

Hi everyone! I haven't posted anything this week because I have been enjoying the comments on my post on women. Keep the comments coming. I read every comment carefully, and even though I have not commented myself (I'll probably save that for a post), I appreciate all the opinions and thoughts.
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Anyway, tomorrow is World Health Day - April 7th. Salalah will be hosting a walk tomorrow afternoon. Everyone is invited. The meeting point will be the airport parking lot at 4:30 tomorrow afternoon. T-shirts will be given to all participants. They're expecting over a thousand people.
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If you live in Salalah and you're free tomorrow afternoon, put on your favorite sneakers, and join the walk. It's for a good cause. I'm looking for a walking partner. Any volunteers? :)

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Discrimination Against Women in Dhofar & Oman

Discrimination is a sociological term referring to the treatment taken toward or against a person of a certain group in consideration based solely on class or category. Discrimination is the actual behavior towards another group. It involves excluding or restricting members of one group from opportunities that are available to other groups ~ Wikipedia.
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The United Nations had concluded that women often experience a "glass ceiling" and that there are no societies in which women enjoy the same opportunities as men. The term "glass ceiling" is used to describe a perceived barrier to advancement in employment based on discrimination, especially sex discrimination ~ UN
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With regard to the rights of women here (in Oman), the Amnesty International 2007 Human Rights report said that although the Sultanate ratified an agreement on combating all types of discrimination against women in February 2006 and declared the formation of a committee to ensure the implementation of the provision of the agreement women continued to suffer discrimination whether in respect of the law or its implementation especially when it came to personal rights, employment, and participation in public life ~ Times of Oman

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This is Longest Post in the World – Forgive Me.
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Disclaimer: Compared to other countries in the Middle East, Oman definitely treats women with more respect. We have a lot to be thankful for. We have many female leaders and there is gender equality for sure. However, the biggest mistake is to generalize. Most of this freedom, equality, rights, etc, is in the capital area and that's no secret. Muscat is another planet. Let us not forget the hundreds of thousands of women in the villages and small towns around Oman. We matter. Women deserve dignity & Respect.
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Dear Readers,
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After reading Rania's post here and after a small incident this morning, my blood pressure is on the rise and I am royally peeved. I've been putting off writing about racism/discrimination against women for a long time, but today since I'm on the verge of tears and very annoyed, I have to let it all out.
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To the haters (men) out there who are already formulating rude answers, save your breath because they won't be published. I love Salalah and I love the people, and yes I'm a human so I have the right to complain sometimes. Words of support or interesting ideas/debates are most welcome.
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Hundreds of thoughts are spinning through my head right now and I don't even know where to start. Can I just spew forth my thoughts and you try to make sense out of them? Thank you very much. I'll put my ideas into points so it's easier for readers to refer back to a certain idea, etc when commenting.
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1. In Oman women definitely have legal rights. No doubt about that. We can work, drive, vote, ask for a divorce, etc. Take a moment out to think about women in Saudi Arabia. They cannot drive (not even expat women), they must wear the abaya everywhere (it's illegal not to), they can only work in certain places, schools and colleges are gender-segregated, women cannot go out alone, they practically have to carry their marriage certificate around wherever they to be ready for the Moral Police (or whatever they're called …). Saudi society is sick. Thank you Sultan Qaboos for being the open minded man that you are. We are so blessed to have such an enlightened leader.
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2. Government-wise, I think our country is doing pretty good. My rants today are not against the government. They are against men and society. People. No matter how 'free' a woman is in Oman legally, there are always men in her life controlling her. There are men in my life controlling me (yes even me after spending 5 years abroad on my own, I came back to a society where men immediately assumed the duties of controlling me and making decisions about my life), but today I'll be complaining on behalf of all the beautiful intelligent women around me. My friends, sisters, cousins, colleagues, aunts, etc. Today I'll be talking about Salalah mostly because I cannot speak for the rest of Oman. Do you want to know how many men I know who've spoken these exact words to the women in their life 'We've allowed you to work and drive. What more do you want?'. So many times I've wanted to shout at them 'WE WANT MORE'. Who the hell gave you the right to 'allow' or 'not allow'. Who gave you the right to control someone else's life?
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3. As a human, I feel that my most basic need is to be in control of my own life. As a human, I feel it is my right. As a Muslim I feel it is my right. As an Omani I feel it is my right. As a woman I feel it is my right. I have one life and it is mine. Mine.
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4. Allah/God created men and women to live in this world together, to build families and populate the earth and support one another and do good. God did not say 'It's a man's world. Hide the women. I created them by mistake'. Islam is a beautiful religion and women's rights in Islam are clear. Women in the time of the Prophet Mohammed PBUH were strong and free. They fought in battle, they were businesswomen (Al Sayyida Khadija RAA the Prophet's first wife was a very successful businesswoman and he looked up to her!). Women prayed with men and they certainly were not hidden in rooms under layers of black. So many incidents from his time included women. Read the Sunna. I feel women were respected back then a lot more than they are now. I need more time to study the Quran and books on Islam to fully understand the role of women. I feel men/religious leaders in our time have screwed up ideas about women.
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5. From a reader: "Nadia, don't you think women in Salalah were more independent and strong in the past, when men tended to think of women as humans, not bodies that may sexually arouse them and consequently have to be covered/chained at home? Racism against women should be taken into consideration too". Before the 1970s, women in Dhofar were poor yes but they were free. They worked hard with the men (side by side) farming, taking care of the animals, etc. Many women I know in the mountains used to leave their huts alone at sunrise and take the animals to look for food all day. Alone. Many women I know fought in the Dhofar War. They carried around machine guns, drove pickup trucks, and were heavy smokers (No, I don’t admire them for that). Women back then wore colors or the dyed purple indigo clothes. They did not wear black. They did not wear the face veil. Women rocked.
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6. During the period from 1970-2010, life in Dhofar was transformed. The Sultan took power, people in Dhofar were given land and cars and jobs by His Majesty, Oman was opened up to the rest of the world, the Abaya was introduced to women in Oman (via Iran I think) and everything started changing. Once families moved into the town after the war, women didn't have to work as hard anymore, so they began to spend most of their day at home. Slowly women began wearing black from head to toe, the face veil became popular, gender segregation became the norm, and Salalah slowly turned into a male-dominated society. Yes, this all happened over the past 40 years.
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7. Women in Salalah still do not understand enough about Islam or about their rights as Muslim women. They are not educated (most of them aren't) so it's hard for them to find information on Islam online or in books (you can't even find books here). Do you think most men bothered to enlighten them? Of course not. They like being in control. Do you know that some of my relatives believe it's Fardh (a must) in Islam to wear the face veil? How could they think that? It's Sunna and a woman should be able to decide on her own whether she wants to wear it or not. No man should ever force his wife/sisters/mother to wear it.
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8. Most women in Salalah wear the face veil. Most of them do not wear it because they are God-fearing Muslims. They wear it because their husbands/brothers/fathers forced them to. It's is purely cultural. Tradition. It's the fear of being 'recognized'. The fear of having an 'identity'. God forbid we should ever be proud of our own identity!!!!!!!
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9. Most Dhofari men will tell you 'My wife is at home. She has her house and her children and she visits her family every week. I provide for her and I take her shopping when she wants. She is respected in her home. There is no reason for her to go beyond those four walls. A woman's life is in the home'. It's all nice and dandy if the women AGREES. She should have a choice. Otherwise she is a prisoner and she is trapped.
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Story (1): one of my close friends in high school had big plans for life. She wanted to be an artist. She was popular in our high school and very pretty. She wanted to travel, work, drive, be a mother and see the world. Most of all, she wanted to paint. After high school she started talking about applying at local colleges. Her brother refused and she rebelled. He got worried so he decided to marry her off immediately before she caused any more trouble. Her husband-to-be told her he didn't mind her continuing her higher studies so she had a little hope left in her broken heart. Within three months she was married. One month after the wedding she discovered she was pregnant. She lived in a room and shared the house with her in-laws. Her mother in law didn't approve of the painting, so to keep her happy, the husband banned all paints from entering the house (LOSER). Unhappy, pregnant, and trapped, I watched my friend become more and more depressed. She now has three kids (all under the age of 4) and her husband won't even let her out of the house to visit friends (me included). If I want to see her, I have to go to the in-laws house or catch her at her parents' house when she's there visiting. Her husband brainwashed her into thinking her life is complete between the four walls of their bedroom. He on the other hand, travels every year with his friends to Thailand or India or wherever. He works, hangs out with friends everyday, comes home late, hardly pays any attention to her. What is she supposed to do? Leave him? With three small kids? Of course not. He does not abuse her. He does whatever she wants provided it doesn't go beyond the four walls of the house. It hurts me to think about how depressed she can be sometimes knowing her whole life will be like this. Trapped. No freedom. No opinion. Controlled by a man.
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Need I mention he has forbidden the use of birth control? She is tired of having kids. Many men in Salalah forbid birth control. I guess this is why families are so large. A man I know forced his wife to get pregnant every year because she kept on having girls and he wanted a boy. What an animal. She ended up having six girls (they're 3,4,5,7,8,10) ... YES one after the other until she finally had a boy last year.
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11. Story (2): another friend of mine went to Australia to do her Masters. She lived on her own for two years. Her brothers (father passed away) never bothered to check up on her or ask about her (as long as she was out of the country and away from people's gossip, they didn't care). The minute she returned they realized how independent she'd become (no kidding) and they decided she must get married. Of course she refused. So her brothers said 'Fine then, you're not allowed to work'. Once her uncles interfered the brothers agreed to let her work because she had to pay off her student loans. She started work and they became greedy. She was making around 1200/- Rials. She wanted to save for her Ph.D and she was also paying bills for the house. Her brothers went out of their way, got wasta and contacted her employer to find out how much she was making because she wouldn't tell them what her salary was. Would you believe what they said? "Dear M, you are a girl, you don't need that salary. Every month you will keep 350 Rials for yourself to cover your own expenses and your sisters' and the rest you will give to us. We are men and we need the money more than you'. WTF? She called me in tears. A while later they got bored of driving her to work so they 'allowed' her to take driving lessons and then informed her coldly that they would be selecting the car she should buy with her own money. She would drive to work in the morning and the minute she got home she would hand the keys over to her brothers. At the moment she's still fighting. Who can she turn to? What kind of brothers behave like that?
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12. Story (3): one of my friends' aunts decided to volunteer at one of the centers for special abilities & needs here in Dhofar. She was very excited and spent two or three hours a day during the morning working with the center. This went on for two or three months. Her husband never asked her about her voluntary work. He didn't care. One day she was helping to put up an exhibition at the center and Oman TV were there filming. The corner of her face was visible for about 4 seconds on TV. One of her husband's friends saw this and called the husband 'Hey, your wife's on TV!'. And that was it. Husband came home in a rage and decided his wife would stop volunteering with the handicapped kids and she wasn't allowed out of the house on her own because she would misbehave. Please note this woman is almost 40 with 4 kids in school. He was so ashamed and upset that someone had 'seen' her and 'recognized' her on TV.
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13. Story (4): many women I know desperately want to lose weight and join an all-female gym or go walking in the evenings. Most families (especially the prissy higher tribes) refuse. The men in the families tell them to exercise at home. They believe a woman who goes to a gym and sheds the abaya is a near-prostitute. What will other women say if they recognize her? Oh shame shame. Again, fear of being recognized and known.
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14. Story (5): my own father told me once when I'd just come back from abroad 'You're independent and strong. I cannot control you. Do what you want but I don't want people to recognize you and I don't want to hear about it'. I remember once I took my mother out to dinner and parked my car in front of the famous Chinese Cascade restaurant at the centre of town. We went in to the restaurant and had a lovely dinner in one of the private family rooms. We were at home by 9. Around 8:30 a close cousin drove by the restaurant and saw my car and immediately called my father the next morning 'You let your daughter go to restaurants at night??! Who will ever marry her? You have a reputation!'. My father in turn called me screaming 'Your car was seen! No more restaurants. No public places where people recognize you'. Well, sorry dad but I didn't know eating Chinese food with my mother in a private family room was a sin. Women need more places to get together in Salalah. At the moment, there are almost NO public places where it's perfectly acceptable for women to meet. There will always be someone who disapproves. Look at Browniz Coffee House in Salalah. The whole 2nd floor is dedicated to women. There is a sofa, open area and also private rooms. Many men hang out in the men's part downstairs and if they see women sneaking up to the 2nd floor through the private side entrance they immediately assume the girl has a bad reputation. Well, sorry guys but YOU are the ones with issues, not us.
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15. Story (6): I will not elaborate because this post is getting too long. I, too, like Rania was told I couldn't go into the men's section of the Grand Mosque during visiting hours because I was a woman. Furthermore, many women's sections at local mosques are locked up most of the year and only open up during Ramadan. Why can't women pray at the mosque when they want? Not all women have kids. I went to the Grand Mosque for sunset prayers one day because I was out shopping and didn't want to miss the prayers, and I got SO MANY WEIRD LOOKS from men in the mosque parking lot. I felt like I was committing a crime. Like I didn't belong. Like I was heading to a shady nightclub or brothel. For heaven's sake I was just going to the mosque to pray. I was simply waiting for a call from my father telling me I'd been 'seen' and no more mosque-praying anymore. Why can't women pray in the mosque? When I was abroad I used to go to the mosque every Friday. Men and women prayed together in the same prayer hall and listened to the sermon together. It was a spiritual family affair. We felt united. Muslims from all over the world praying together. Sadly, I felt more in touch with my religion when I was in a non-Muslim country than I do in Oman. I used to attend lectures at the mosque every week. The Muslim Student Association was active. Friday prayers at the mosque were wonderful. I was proud to be Muslim. I was encouraged by members of the Muslim community to study about Islam. When I came back to Oman it all changed. Nobody wants to talk about it. Traditions and tribes are more important than Islam sometimes. I cannot go to the mosque freely. Praying became a private thing. I don't have anyone to discuss Islam with (besides Rania :-). We are all Muslim but Islam is so mingled in with local traditions that it's hard to distinguish what's right and what's wrong. In Salalah people are not proud of Islam. They are proud of their tribe and their connections.
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16. Story (7): A small point that annoyed me. Remember when Rania and I met for the first time? We went to the beach to talk. It was the public Haffa beach. Hundreds of people hang out there every night. Men at the restaurants and women towards the end of the beach in groups with kids. Would you believe the number of emails we received from men accusing us of 'misbehavior' because we were on a beach alone together? With hundreds of other people? Fully clad in black from head to toe? What kind of misbehaving do you mean? Do you mean to tell us we should have dragged our brothers/husband along and had them watch us to make sure we didn't throw off the abaya and walk around in pink bikinis or something? Who the hell do you think you are writing to me telling me I'm a bad person because I met a friend in a public place at night? Who gave you the courage to type those letters and press the send button? What kind of a person are you?
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17. Reputation is all in Salalah. Let me enlighten you. When a girl is seen exchanging study notes with a male colleague at university, her reputation is ruined forever. Or so our men think. According to Dhofari men, women are like white sheets of paper. One little spot of ink and it's ruined. Yes, men have said that to me MANY times. And of course I assume men are black pieces of paper so no matter how much ink you pour onto them, they'll remain pure? As far as Dhofari men are concerned, a woman who is 'recognized' has ruined her reputation. A woman who even smiles at another man has ruined her reputation. A woman who flirted with the boy next door during her teens has ruined her reputation. A woman who drives is ruining her reputation. A woman who works I ruining her reputation. A woman who has an identity has no reputation. Reputation. Reputation. F*** reputation. Why can't a woman have a reputation for being smart, educated, strong, moral, a good mother?? What's wrong with being known? Why can't a woman have a reputation for being a businesswoman? Or a Sheikha at a mosque? Or a good teacher? Why can't men be proud of their women??? When a man approaches another man telling him 'I saw your wife doing this and this. Mashallah she's so smart', why can't the man go to his wife and say 'I'm so proud of you. People are saying good things about you', instead of getting annoyed because someone knows who she is?
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Need I mention that my brother insists I hide in my bedroom when the plumber or electrician is coming to the house to fix something? Need I mention that I'm not allowed to go out to my car when he's outside waiting for a friend to pick him up because it would be too shameful for his friend to see me, even though my face is covered???
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18. Why are women hidden behind locked doors? Is it because they are 'Fitna' (temptation) and may arouse men? Are men such animals? Why is it that one manager at my company refuses to deal with me face to face and will not look at me because I'm a woman. Is he trying to get a message through that he's religious and I'm a slut so he can't work with me? All I wanted was for him to sign a paper and let me know if he had any extra thoughts on the X program we were working on together (through email. Email is fine). I haven't seen him for six months even though he works in the same building. We correspond everyday by email but I've decided to avoid him because his behavior is an insult to me.
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19. I have met religious leaders who cannot even look at a woman and who say 'Istaghfurallah' whenever a woman enters the room (yes there are many of them). What kind of Islam do they practice? What kind of Muslim leaders are they? Do they believe they are good people? They've isolated themselves from society because everything is a temptation. I know of some religious leaders who cannot even look at their own sisters or wife without the hijab on. It upsets them too much. What kind of Islam is that?
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20. On a more positive note, I have met one or two religious leaders who are cheerful educated worldly people. They treated me like a human and I was truly inspired. I attended a few lectures by Sheikh Khalfan Al Esry at the Grand Mosque in Muscat. He is one of those enlightened souls who encourages you to love life and religion. He is the only religious leader I've ever met with a huge sense of humor. He is educated, well travelled, and just an enlightened human being. So many women in Muscat go to him for answers because he's always ready to address people's concerns and questions. We need more of him in Oman and less of the other type.
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21. And about circumcision, why do men feel that women MUST be circumcised? According to some men I know, a common myth is that women are sluts by nature, so in order to curb their desire, they must be circumcised at birth otherwise they'll spend their whole life chasing after men. Are you surprised dear readers? Circumcision still exists in Salalah. Not as much as before, but every girl my age is circumcised. And guess what? They cannot experience pleasure with their husbands most of the time because intercourse hurts so much. Men are full of lust and women see it as a terrible chore. I personally see having intercouse with a circumcised woman in pain as legal rape.
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22. What about polygamy? Dhofar is huge on polygamy. 99.99% of men who take on a second wife do so without any valid Islamic reason. To non-Muslims reading this, not all men can marry a 2nd wife. They must have a valid reason and these reasons are clearly stated in the Quran and Sunna. First of all, the first wife must agree. In Salalah, men don't even bother to ask their wives. They just go ahead and get married and sometimes they don't even tell their wives until the wedding day. What kind of respect is that? What kind of a Muslim does that? The whole idea of polygamy is totally screwed up in Dhofar, I'm sorry to say.
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23. The Glass Ceiling: although there are no 'legal' rules in Oman stopping women from travelling or working or being promoted, or driving or eating in public places, the rules are unwritten, generated by a male-dominated society. As a well-travelled young woman in a modern world, I feel it's my right to work, drive, travel, study, go to the mosque, meet people, have friends, go shopping with my sisters, etc, but deep down inside I KNOW that anyday this could all be taken away from me .... by a man. Do you have any idea what that feels like? To know that anyday your father might suddenly decide you can't work anymore, or he doesn't want you driving anymore, or I'm not allowed to go shopping without a man, or ... maybe a future husband? I'm terrified of marriage because I have seen so many friends who were lied to by their husbands before the wedding. All these empty promises 'Yes my dear, you can live your life and do what you want'. And the moment they get married, the man takes everything away. Just like that. Snap. In one moment, your whole life crumbles in front of you and the man's only excuse is 'مزاج' or 'I do what I want' (i.e. a woman's place is at home).
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Every woman knows that everything that she has built for herself can be taken away from her in one simple moment by a husband or father or brother. Every semi-free woman I know is never 100% confident about her life because she knows she may lose it all one day if her husband has a temper tantrum. Every woman knows her life is not entirely hers. WOMEN SHOULD NOT HAVE TO LIVE LIKE THAT.
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However, dear readers, I know this is the longest post and you're all cross-eyed by now and many of you are ready to attack me for my views, but let me highlight the positive points too. Salalah is definitely changing. Over the past several years more women are working and driving, and I've even started to notice women in restaurants and cafes. Hell, I've even seen women grocery shopping on their own. Salalah is definitely changing. But that's still not enough.
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What we need is more men who don't feel the need to control women. We need more men who respect women and are willing to see their wives as 'partners in life', not someone lower than them. YES these men exist in Salalah and I am meeting more of them each day. I know some of them are reading this now and you know who you are. I want to say 'Thank you' to these brave men who are defying the unwritten rules in society. Thank you to all the men who have helped women build their own lives and get up on their own two feet. Thank you to all the men who treat us with respect at home, at work, in stores, in schools.
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Thank you to the men who are looking for friendship and respect in marriage, not just a woman who will cook for them and iron their clothes and raise the kids on her own. Thank you to all the men who are not ashamed to help their wives in the kitchen or change a baby's diaper or make their wives a cup of coffee. Thank you to all the men who are brave enough to tell their friends 'I'm busy tonight. I'm taking my wife out to dinner'. Thank you to the young and older men who have put on a new pair of glasses and who have been able to see women as beautiful and enlightened creatures who can do so much more in the world. Thank you to all the husbands who are able to refer to their wives as 'Mona' or 'Fatma' to their friend instead of a simple الأهل (the family) because they're too ashamed to say the name. And finally, thank you to all the male relatives who have seen me around town and who didn't feel the need to run and tell my father I'd been seen.
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Finally, the end. I am interested to hear what men think and whether - as men- you truly feel the need to control your women? What about female readers from Oman or the South? Do you feel the discrimination? What have you experienced and how are you breaking out of the shell?

Monday, March 29, 2010

Book Fair Map

Fellow blogger and Google Earth addict Ma7feef went out of his way to help my readers by creating a map to the Book Fair in Salalah. Hope you're all happy!

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Book Fair Salalah 2010 معرض الكتاب

Quick note. The annual Book Fair is on at the Ministry of Heritage and Culture (between the Governor's office and the Women's Association) for another week I think or more. This year there are some FANTASTIC reference books. I bought a book on eco-tourism and another on dragons. Oh... and I also bought Twilight (English) and the Arabic translated versions of Gabriel Garcia Marquez's books. Hmmm... I also bought Girls of Riyadh. I've read it but I don't own a copy, so I figured I should. Echoing Rania, GO CHECK IT OUT!

Earth Hour 2010

Dear Friends,
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I am disappointed because I have not heard or seen ANYTHING in Salalah about Earth Hour 2010. For Earth Hour 2008 I know of a couple of professors at the local university who arranged an Earth Hour event. Last year's event wasn't so successful. Other than that, I don't think anyone in this town has any idea what Earth Hour is. In fact, perhaps many of your readers aren't aware of this global climate change initiative either.
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On the last Saturday of every March, at 8:30 p.m to be exact, people all around the world turn off their lights and electrical appliances for one hour. In 2009 over 4000 cities in around 90 countries officially switched off the lights to pledge their support to the planet, making Earth Hour the world's largest global climate change initiative. Hundreds of millions of people! Oman can definitely do it. I know some of the major hotels in Muscat are joining the cause tonight, but what about everyone else?
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Where the hell is the Ministry of Environment & Climate Affairs? What is their role in this climate change initiative? Can someone enlighten me? Why not organize a walk along the beach from 8:30 to 9:30 ... hundreds of people would turn off all the electricity in their houses and join the walk if only it were advertised properly.
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I may sound a little annoyed. Forgive me, I haven't had my usual dose of caffeine. I am definitely going to switch all the lights and appliances off in my home tonight. I encourage you to do the same. Switch off your laptops and TVs, and do something real. As for me, perhaps I'll go take a walk. Rania, care to join me?

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Drugs in Salalah

Hi! I only have a couple of minutes to write ... sorry about that. I've been extremely busy! But I do want to ask if any of you know about the ROP drugs campaign last week? According to my sources, over 500 people were investigated, some were arrested, and apparently there was some gunfire. I know of a couple of people who are still in prison (it's been a week). Does anyone have more information?
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March 27 Update: Ma7feef has a post up on this with more details. If you can read Arabic, check out his post here.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Massage Parlours with Happy Endings

I haven't been able to write this week for a variety of reasons .. but I found an extra few minutes to get my daily dose of blogs, and I found Muscat Confidential's recent post rather interesting. Kudos to the Times of Oman for highlighting this issue again.
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A few years ago (I think it was 2007), the Dhofar Municipality shut down many of these so-called shady 'Health Clubs' in Salalah after discovering most of the masseurs were pretty Moroccan women who come from poor families and who are desperate for more money. Sometimes you can't blame them. Blame the men. I met the wife of a senior official at Dhofar Municipality and she told me about it in detail but wasn't able to answer all my questions.
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I was with some friends yesterday and one of them mentioned transvestites working at these parlours. Eek!
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Has anyone been to one of these massage parlours in Muscat or Salalah? (And no, I don't mean hotel massage parlours with harmless little Thai women/healers). What did you think? What have you heard?

Friday, March 12, 2010

7 Random Facts

I got tagged by Kitten, and thus I am forced to share 7 random facts about me. Don't worry, I'm planning a post on crappy mosque sermons for tomorrow. Keep your eyes and ears peeled.
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Seven Random Facts:
(1) I am a perfectionist.
(2) I am addicted to books.
(3) I listened to Daughtry 'Home' on my way to work this morning
(4) I love white paper and sharpened Steadler pencils.
(5) I have 653 contacts on my cell phone.
(6) I am vegetarian.
(7) I am not who you think I am.
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Juma'a Mubaraka everyone!

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Wooohooooooo!!

I can comment on my blog again! YAAAAAAAAAY! And other people's blogs!!! YAAAAAAY!!! I'm so happy!! YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!!! Thank you IT geeks for allowing me to upgrade my internet explorer at work! YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!! And it's the weekend! YAAAAAAAAY!!! I'm ecstatic!! YAAAAAY!

Monday, March 8, 2010

Chai Salalah

No afternoon get-together in Salalah is complete without a thermos of spicy tea or plain red tea. I'm sitting in the mountains now with my laptop and a thermos of spicy Chai Salalah. Yes, the wireless internet modem works here. Thank you Nawras.
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Chai Salalah Ingedients:
- Milk
- Ground cardamom
- Fresh or powdered ginger
- sugar
- lipton red tea bags
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Directions:
Put four cups of milk in a pot on the stove with four spoons of ground cardamom, about a third of a cup of sugar (depending on how you like it) and a spoon of ginger. Wait for it to come to a boil then throw in five teabags and let it come to a boil again. Stir until the milk is golden coloured. Turn the heat off and put the tea through a strainer before putting it in a thermos. Serve in small little tea glasses.
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I love Chai Salalah.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Dragon Returns

And ..... Muscat Confidential was unblocked again after 12 hours of panic. Peace.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Muscat Confidential Blocked

Dear Readers,
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Is it just my PC or has Omantel finally blocked Muscat Confidential, the home of our dear Mr.Dragon? I hadn't opened his blog for a few days but fellow bloggers informed me he had posted a rather controversial picture over the weekend? Tsk tsk...
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When I type in the link to his blog, I do not get the Blocked by Omantel page, but rather the 'Oops, the link appears to be broken' page, so I can't even send a message to Omantel asking them to unblock him. How unfair.
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We'll wait and see what happens. Meanwhile, to the rest of you ambitious bloggers out there, if you want to keep your blogs up and running, do be careful what you post.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Booo Oman!

That was one of the worst games I've ever seen. What a bunch of sissies. Both teams, that is. Mr. Dragon, the draw means Oman has lost every chance of playing in the Asian Cup. Kuwait still has a chance.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Oman Vs. Kuwait

Dhofari Gucci is on fire today! I can't wait to get out of work and set myself up on the sofa with the family to watch the Oman vs. Kuwait soccer game tonight. To those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about, Oman is playing Kuwait at 7:30 tonight at the stadium in Bausher (Muscat). Omantel purchased 20,000 tickets to ensure people can go for free. Guards will grant free entrance to anyone wearing the Omani flag colors or red. Anyone coming in plain clothes will have to pay a rial to enter. Five rials for better seats and ten rials for VIP seats.
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If you're in Muscat, GO CHEER! This is an order! If Oman wins, we'll play in the Asian Cup. If not, we're out. It's very important!
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Have a great weekend everyone! All my colleagues have left work early (hah). Evidently having rain and a soccer game AND it being Wednesday are valid enough excuses to leave work early. Oman will never change.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Sacrifice to the Sea

A few days ago I was sitting on the beach with some friends and somehow we ended up discussing old Dhofari traditions. Despite our modern way of life, Dhofaris are still very much connected to the earth and the old way of life. Yes, we are superstitious people, and yes we still do practice some forms of pre-Islamic paganism. I have observed quite often the sacrifices our people make to the ocean, water springs, etc.
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Many of the older generation in Dhofar still believe that water won't run in the springs unless a sacrifice is made. And yes, I have seen locals sacrificing small black cows (slaughtering them under water) and performing odd rituals to ensure the springs continue to provide water. If a water spring goes dry, the mountain tribe that guards the spring (it's all tribal) will gather and slaughter at the spring in hope of water. Sure enough, on several occasions, water indeed does appear.
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My friend's father is a fisherman. According to him, sacrifices must be made on a regular basis to the ocean to keep it calm. In fact, (correct me if I'm wrong), it is commonly known that top government officials (no names please, we all know who it is) sacrifice gold and money to the ocean to keep the peace. This old fisherman says he would never risk going out to fish if a sacrifice hasn't been made because he knows how angry the ocean can get. Over and over again, I've heard the ocean being referred to as a human. The ocean is considered a powerful force that controls us. (لازم نذبح وإلا البحر بيهيج)
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I find it fascinating how connected people are to the sea. I wish I had more time to study old traditions and rituals. There is so much we do not understand about this world because we are so obsessed with materialistic development. We do not treat our planet well. We do not respect the ocean, earth, stars, sun, and moon. We merely take advantage and then complain when things go wrong (earthquakes, tsunamis, pollution, global warming, hurricanes). Perhaps our ancestors knew more about the mysteries of life.
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Do people in other parts of Oman make sacrfices? Have you observed them? What are the rituals? I'm curious.
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It's raining in Salalah today (in fact, all over Oman if I'm not mistaken). The weather is very odd. Dark clouds. Although I left the house at 7:30 this morning, it was still dark outside and I had to have all the lights on.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Salalah Marriot Again?

It's Wednesday! And we have a LONG weekend! And I am DYING to get out of work and start my weekend projects. I'm going to finish reading 2 books, bake, write, attempt to make Biryani, do a lot of housework, vegetate on the sofa with movies, and just chill. Maybe go shopping. Or .... maybe not go shopping. Yesterday was payday for most people, so you can imagine what the traffic will be like today all over Oman. Funny how it's so predictable.
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So back to the Marriot issue. New readers suddenly popped up to criticize/wonder why I said it hurts to know that young Omani men from the mountains and area around Mirbat will end up being offered jobs at these tourist resorts. They argued that tourism was part of the strategy for economic diversification, etc, etc. To quote some "It is also a lovely and interesting experience when a tourist meets a local instead of an expatriate while staying in a country. It adds to the fun of being on holiday. Having expatriate staff will only add to the resort alienating itself from the rich Omani culture".
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And then FINALLY one reader understood my point of view. She wrote "After 25 years of living on and off in the UAE I have seen the ugly things that tourism can do to a country. It brings in more alcohol, more prostitution, etc...Oman is a beautiful country filled with beautiful people. It is pristine in the sense that it hasn't been covered in the ugly filth that Dubai underground is famous for. Oman isn't flashy and hedonistic like Dubai. I am sure that there many Omanis who do not want what happened to Dubai to happen to any part of Oman.It would be nice instead for the Omani government to focus on Eco-Tourism or something else to keep Oman beautiful the way it is.So I can see why Dhofari Gucci wrote what she wrote about". THANK YOU Miss MishMish!
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So with all due respect to the Westerners who commented earlier, I am completely pro-tourism. I want the whole world to see how beautiful Oman is and to experience our culture. OUR culture. OUR culture. I want tourists to come and experience the real Oman. I want our young Omani men to show them our way of life. I want the tourists to experience camping under the stars, milking camels, mountain-climbing, traditional music, traditional food, ... I want them to visit the old archaeological sites, to study cave-writings and visit old tombs. I want them to admire our beautiful beaches. I want to meet them and invite them to my home to meet some real Omanis.
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But wake up everyone, are young Omanis working in the hotel business going to help with this kind of real tourism? They're forced to wear hideous bellhop uniforms and speak English all the time. They're exposed to drunken tourists and alcohol on a daily basis, and then many of them start drinking too. They are exposed to over-weight Germans in tiny bikinis lounging by the pool on a daily basis or perhaps topless Swedes who think it's OK. They have to survive the hotel dance clubs and loud music. How is that going to help them? A young man who spends all his life in the mountains in a small village raising animals and then gets offered a job in a hotel and is exposed to all this ... what do you think will happen to him? Scarred for life? That may be the case.
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So, yeah, I may have insulted the Germans and Swedes, but I'm just trying to explain why I feel ill when I see young Omanis working in the hotel business. The hotels are in NO WAY related to anything Omani. Besides the tiny gift shops that sell wooden camels made in Pakistan, 5-star hotels and resorts are a reflection of Western culture. If I were a businessman I'd build the perfect 5-star Omani hotel .. a true reflection of who we are. Tourists would love it. It would have all the comforts and facilities of a Western 5-star hotel, but yes I'd get rid of the alcohol. No matter how close I am to my Western friends, I will never ever understand why they drink. And I don't think they'll ever understand why I'm Muslim. And so we leave it at that. Synergize and celebrate the differences and remain friends.
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I hope I got the message through. There's no way I can stop this kind of development, but the least I can do is speak up and let you know what most Omanis feel.
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On a lighter note, evidently the locals in Mirbat think the Marriot is a curse because it was built over a very old graveyard. Some swear that before the hotel was even opened, they could hear racket and voices when there was no one there. My colleague from Mirbat told me that some of the older generation spoke to HE the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Sheikh Yousuf Bin Alawi (who seems to be the mastermind of the project? Correct me if I'm wrong. I didn't have time to do research) begging him to stop construction because of the graves, ...
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Food for thought. Cheer up, it's the weekend after all.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Salalah Marriot Resort

Greetings, fellow creatures. A friend of mine went out to Mirbat over the weekend to investigate the newly opened Marriot Resort on the beach. I'm not a big fan of big bucks ruining our natural beaches, but there's nothing we can do to stop it. The only two big hotels in Dhofar at the moment are the Hilton & the Crowne Plaza. Both are lovely and have taken up a generous chunk of our beach. Over the past two years I've heard rumors of a new tourism village opening up at Mirbat (80 Km East of Salalah). Mirbat is a beautiful old town and I believe was quite famous for horse-breeding back in the good old days.
Anyway, to according to my sources at the Ministry of Tourism, a whole tourist town is being built out near Mirbat. Hotels, shops, golf courses, tennis courts, beach, and even an airport. If it'll keep the thousands of Swedes and Germans & the alcohol out there away from town, then I guess it's a good thing. But what hurts is that all the young Omani men from the mountains around Mirbat and from the town itself will be offered jobs at these resorts. The hotel business is so not-Omani.

The pool at the Marriot looks like it's t0-die-for and perhaps they'll let me jump in with my abaya and pink shades. Their rates are pretty good considering it's a five-star hotel. Last time I checked their website they had some really great packages. 70 Rials a night at a five-star resort? That's cheaper than the Park Inn and Golden Tulip! Almost as cheap as the Ibis. So if you're thinking of spending a weekend in Salalah, check out the Marriot! If I'm being nice, I might even invite you to coffee in my tent. My camels don't bite.

Beware The Jabberwocky!

'Twas brillig, and the slithy toves
Did gyre and gimble in the wabe;
All mimsy were the borogoves,
And the mome raths outgrabe.
"Beware the Jabberwock, my son!
The jaws that bite, the claws that catch!
Beware the Jubjub bird, and shun
The frumious Bandersnatch!"
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I'm not having a good day.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Bloggers in the Times of Oman

Dear Readers,
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Hope you're all enjoying your weekend. I certainly am. You can read Part One and Part Two of the Times of Oman piece written by Sandhya Menon if you like. I enjoyed the article. Yes, that's my pompom/kammasha/second head in the picture. Closest you'll ever get to seeing my face!
.Thanks for all the comments (I'm still having a commenting problem so I can't always respond - damn technology). Thank you to all the losers too for your hate mail. Your insults flatter me. Do continue! And thank you Dragon for dedicating a part of your most recent post to these haters.
l
Meanwhile, I'm sulking because a flock of about 100 herons seem to have missed their turning to the Salalah bird sanctuary at the beach and instead landed on one of the major roundabouts. Once they realized the grassy flowery roundabout was actually not too bad, they decided to hang out there a little longer. And DAMMIT I did not have my camera with me. I swore at the steering wheel then decided to enjoy the moment anyway and drove in circles around the roundabout.
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I was at Lulu Centre yesterday looking for coffee filters when I noticed in the crap drinks section (i.e. Tang), a new flavor was being advertised .... Tang Lemon & Black Pepper. Yes, you heard me. For years and years Oman has been addicted to Tan Mango, Tang Orange, Tang Pineapple, Tang Lemon, etc .... but with PEPPER? Someone investigate please. I'm tempted to go buy some.
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That's all for now folks!